By Jagdish Reddy | 10+ Years Gardening Experience
Researched Using: NC Cooperative Extension • Oregon State University (OSU) Extension • USDA Web Soil Survey • USDA NRCS Soil Health Assessment
Updated: July 2026
If you’re trying to figure out how to improve clay soil, you already know the problem. It bakes hard in summer, turns to sticky mud after rain, and fights you every time you dig.
Heavy clay soil isn’t ruined soil. It just needs the right approach, applied consistently, over more than one season.
This guide covers what actually works: 17 proven methods, the amendments worth your money, the ones to skip, and how to tell your soil is genuinely improving instead of just looking different for a week.
Clay soil isn’t a defect. It’s simply a soil type with tiny, tightly packed mineral particles, and once you understand how those particles behave, every fix on this list makes practical sense instead of feeling like guesswork.
Gardeners dealing with hard-packed, gumbo-style clay (a term especially common across Texas and the South) or dense red clay soil across the Southeast face the same core issue as anyone with heavy, compacted ground: not enough air space, and not enough organic matter holding that space open.
Quick answer: The fastest long-term way to improve clay soil is to add 2 to 4 inches of compost yearly, keep it covered with mulch, avoid walking on wet beds, and repeat the process every season. Most gardeners see better drainage within one growing season.
What Is Clay Soil?
Clay soil is made of very fine mineral particles packed tightly together, leaving little room for air or water to move through.
That tight packing is why clay feels heavy when wet, turns rock hard when dry, and drains slowly no matter the season.
Characteristics of Clay Soil
Clay soil feels heavy in your hand, even when dry, because its particles are denser and pack closer together than sand or silt.
It’s usually darker in color, warms up slower in spring, and holds a shovel print or footprint far longer than looser soil types.
How to Identify Clay Soil
Two simple tests tell you what you’re working with, no lab required.
| Test | What You Do | Clay Soil Result |
|---|---|---|
| Ribbon test | Squeeze moist soil between fingers | Forms a ribbon over 1 inch before breaking |
| Jar test | Shake soil and water, let it settle | Cloudy fine layer settles last, on top |
| Dry test | Let a soil clump dry out fully | Hard, cracked clumps that resist crumbling |
Benefits and Challenges of Clay Soil
| Trait | Benefit | Challenge |
|---|---|---|
| Nutrients | Holds nutrients well | Can lock them away from roots |
| Water | Retains moisture longer | Drains slowly, floods easily |
| Structure | Anchors plants firmly | Compacts and cracks easily |
Regional differences matter too. Gardeners dealing with dense red clay across the Southeast, or the heavy black clay common in parts of Texas, typically need more frequent compost applications than someone working lighter clay loam in the Midwest.
Clay Soil by Region
Clay soil in Georgia and North Carolina tends to be reddish and naturally acidic, so amending it usually means pairing organic matter with a pH check rather than compost alone.
Clay soil in Virginia sits closer to a clay loam in the Piedmont region, while coastal areas lean sandier, so the amendment plan should shift with your specific county.
Clay soil in Missouri and Ohio is often heavier and naturally more fertile than Southeastern red clay, which means it responds faster to compost once drainage is addressed.
Wherever you garden, a local soil test through your state’s cooperative extension gives a far more accurate starting point than guessing based on regional averages.
Signs You Have Bad Clay Soil
Before fixing anything, it helps to confirm what you’re actually dealing with. These symptoms point straight to compacted, unimproved clay.
- Puddles that sit on the surface for hours or days after rain
- Stunted, shallow roots when you pull up a plant
- Yellowing leaves, even on plants you’re watering and feeding normally
- Digging that feels like breaking through concrete, wet or dry
- Deep cracks across the surface in summer heat
NC State Extension notes that clay soils across the Southeast are commonly acidic and nutrient-leached despite their density, which is why a soil test matters as much as a shovel test, according to their clay soil improvement guidance.
Types of Clay Soil
| Type | Feel | Drainage |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy clay | Dense, sticky when wet | Very slow |
| Clay loam | Slightly gritty, holds shape | Moderate |
| Silty clay | Smooth, slippery | Slow |
| Sandy clay | Gritty with some pull | Moderate to slow |
Most home gardens sit somewhere between heavy clay and clay loam. Knowing which one you have decides how aggressive your amendment plan needs to be.
Heavy clay needs the most organic matter and the most patience. It holds water the longest, cracks the deepest in a drought, and takes several seasons of steady compost applications before it feels noticeably different underfoot.
Clay loam is the easiest of the four to work with. It already has enough sand and silt mixed in that a season or two of compost usually gets it to a workable, crumbly texture.
Silty clay behaves like heavy clay but feels smoother and slicker when wet. It compacts just as easily under foot traffic, so paths and raised beds matter just as much here.
Sandy clay drains a little faster than the others, which sounds like an advantage until you realize it can still lock up tight when it dries, so organic matter is still non-negotiable.
Why Does Clay Soil Become Compacted?
| Cause | Why It Happens | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Working wet soil | Squeezes out air pockets, fuses particles | Wait until soil crumbles, not clumps |
| Foot traffic and equipment | Weight presses layers together | Use paths, keep beds untouched |
| Low organic matter | No aggregates to hold pore space open | Add compost every year |
| Poor drainage | Water sits, particles slump together | Improve grading and organic matter |
Oregon State University Extension notes that repeated organic matter additions change clay structure, but the change only holds if applications continue on a regular schedule, according to OSU Extension’s research on clay soil management.
That single point explains why so many gardeners feel like they “fixed” their clay soil one year, only to find it hard again two years later. Structure built by organic matter fades once you stop adding it, the same way a gym gain fades once you stop training.
Before You Start Improving Clay Soil
Four quick checks save you wasted effort later, and each one takes less than a day.
- Test your soil. A jar test or a sample sent to your local cooperative extension tells you exactly what you’re dealing with, including pH and nutrient levels most home tests miss.
- Check drainage. Dig a hole about a foot deep, fill it with water, and time how long it takes to drain. Longer than four hours signals a real drainage issue, not just typical clay slowness.
- Know your clay type. Heavy clay needs more organic matter, applied more often, than clay loam or sandy clay.
- Pick the right season and starting point. Never start when soil is soaked or bone dry. Fall and early spring, once soil crumbles instead of clumping, are the most forgiving windows to begin.
Many Cooperative Extension offices offer inexpensive soil testing services that include pH, nutrient levels, and amendment recommendations tailored to your county. The USDA Web Soil Survey can also help identify your native soil type before you begin amending, using mapped data instead of guesswork.
Expert tip: Don’t judge clay soil right after adding compost. Wait until the following growing season, once earthworms and soil microbes have had time to work the organic matter in naturally.
How Much Compost Does Clay Soil Need?
Amounts depend on how heavy your clay is and whether you’re starting fresh or maintaining an already-improved bed.
| Clay Type | Compost Depth | Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy clay | 3 to 4 inches | Every year |
| Clay loam | 1 to 2 inches | Every year |
| Established beds | 1 inch top-dress | Spring or fall |
For a 100 square foot bed, 3 to 4 inches of compost works out to roughly 1 cubic yard, which most home improvement stores sell by the bag or bulk scoop. Our compost calculator works out exact volume and bag counts for your bed size.
Yes, you can add too much compost. Piling on more than 4 to 6 inches at once, especially repeated every season, can push phosphorus levels too high and actually hurt plant growth over time.
Cost expectations: bagged compost typically runs $4 to $8 per 1 to 1.5 cubic feet, while bulk delivery is usually cheaper per yard for larger beds. Biochar costs more upfront but is a one-time expense, while gypsum is only worth buying after a soil test confirms sodium is actually the problem.
The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service identifies soil organic matter as one of the core indicators of soil health, directly tied to structure, water retention, and compaction resistance, per its soil health assessment guidance.
How to Improve Clay Soil: 17 Proven Ways
Most gardeners don’t tackle all 17 at once. Pick four or five that fit your setup and build from there each season.
1. Add Plenty of Organic Matter
Nothing else moves the needle on clay soil faster than organic matter. It breaks up dense particles and creates the air pockets roots need.
Work in 2 to 4 inches yearly using compost, aged manure, or leaf mold. Surface application works nearly as well as digging it in, with far less effort and less risk of compacting wet soil.
2. Apply Finished Compost Every Year
One heavy application won’t fix clay soil permanently. Compost breaks down and needs replacing.
Spread an inch or two each spring or fall and let earthworms carry it deeper. For exact ratios, see our compost to soil ratio guide. Consistency matters more than volume here, so a modest yearly layer beats one oversized application every few years.
3. Use Well-Aged Manure
Fresh manure burns roots and adds too much nitrogen at once.
Use manure aged at least six months and mix it into the top few inches before planting. Horse and cow manure are the easiest to source and the most forgiving for beginners.
4. Mulch Clay Soil Regularly
A 2 to 3 inch mulch layer protects clay from baking hard in direct sun.
Wood chips, straw, or shredded leaves all reduce cracking and slow moisture loss. Keep mulch a few inches back from plant stems to avoid trapping excess moisture against them.
5. Grow Cover Crops in Clay Soil
Cover crops like clover and daikon radish send roots deep into compacted layers.
Cut them back and let them decompose in place to add organic matter naturally. Fall-planted cover crops are especially useful because they protect bare soil through winter rain instead of leaving it exposed.
6. Aerate Compacted Clay Soil
Aeration opens channels for air, water, and roots without flipping the soil structure.
A broadfork lifts and cracks soil gently. A rotary tiller pulverizes it, which works against you long term. Aerate when soil is moist but not wet, since dry clay resists the tines and wet clay just smears.
7. Avoid Walking on Clay Soil
Foot traffic compresses clay fast, and compaction from walking can undo months of amendment work in seconds.
Use stepping stones or defined paths so garden beds stay untouched. Even a single well-worn footpath through a bed can create a compacted channel that redirects water away from plant roots.
8. Build Raised Beds on Clay Soil
Raised beds let you skip fighting native clay altogether while it slowly improves underneath.
Fill with a blend of topsoil, compost, and coarse material. This raised bed soil calculator works out exact volumes, or use the topsoil calculator if you’re ordering topsoil and compost as separate materials. Skip the plastic liner on the bottom so roots and water can still connect with the native soil below over time.
9. Grow Deep-Rooted Plants to Break Up Clay Soil
Plants like comfrey, alfalfa, and daikon radish push through compacted layers other roots can’t reach.
Their channels stay open after the roots decay, improving drainage naturally. This works even in beds you’re not actively amending, making it a low-effort option for larger yard areas.
10. Use Gypsum Only When It Benefits Clay Soil
Gypsum helps sodium-affected clay soils aggregate, but it does nothing for most ordinary garden clay.
Test your soil first. If sodium isn’t the issue, organic matter does more for less money. Applying gypsum to non-sodic clay is a common wasted expense that doesn’t loosen anything.
11. Leave Plant Roots in the Soil After Harvest
Cutting plants at soil level instead of pulling them leaves root channels intact.
Those channels stay open, improving aeration for next season’s roots. This costs nothing and takes less time than a full pull, making it one of the easiest habits to adopt.
12. Encourage Earthworms and Beneficial Soil Life
Earthworms tunnel through clay, mixing organic matter and leaving behind nutrient-rich castings.
Feed them with mulch and compost, and skip chemicals that harm soil biology. A rising earthworm count season over season is one of the clearest signs your amendment plan is working.
13. Water Clay Soil Deeply but Less Often
Frequent shallow watering keeps clay soggy on top and dry underneath.
Water deeply and less frequently so roots grow down instead of staying shallow. A slow soak, rather than a fast heavy spray, gives dense clay time to actually absorb the water.
14. Never Till Wet Clay Soil
Tilling wet clay destroys its structure and creates compaction that can last for years.
Wait until soil crumbles in your hand instead of forming a muddy clump. If you’re unsure, squeeze a handful and press your thumb into it. Soil that holds a thumbprint without sticking is ready.
15. Improve Drainage in Clay Soil
Standing water suffocates roots and encourages disease in compacted clay.
Grade beds slightly, add organic matter, or install a French drain in chronically wet spots. Even a small slope of 1 to 2 percent is usually enough to move surface water away from plant crowns.
16. Add Biochar to Improve Soil Structure
Biochar creates pore space that doesn’t break down the way compost does.
Charge it with compost or liquid fertilizer first, or it will pull nutrients from the soil instead of adding them. A one-time application can keep contributing structure for a decade or longer.
17. Improve Clay Soil Gradually Over Time
Clay soil that took years to compact won’t reverse in one season.
Consistent yearly amendment, spread across seasons, is what actually rebuilds structure long term. For the full soil-building picture beyond clay, our garden soil improvement guide covers every soil type. Track your progress with a yearly soil test so you can see the change in numbers, not just guesswork.
How Often Should You Repeat Each Method?
| Method | Repeat Every | Effort |
|---|---|---|
| Compost | Yearly | Low |
| Mulch | Yearly | Low |
| Aeration | Yearly or as needed | Medium |
| Biochar | Once, then top up | Medium |
| Gypsum | Only after a soil test | Low |
Best Methods Ranked by Difficulty and Speed
| Method | Difficulty | Speed | Long-Term Effect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mulching | Easy | Fast | Moderate |
| Compost topdressing | Easy | Moderate | High |
| Cover crops | Moderate | Slow | High |
| Broadfork aeration | Moderate | Fast | Moderate |
| Raised beds | Hard | Immediate | High |
Best Soil Amendments for Clay Soil
| Amendment | What It Does | How Often |
|---|---|---|
| Compost | Improves structure, feeds soil life | Every season |
| Leaf mold | Adds organic matter, holds moisture | Annually, in fall |
| Aged manure | Adds nutrients and bulk | 1 to 2 times a year |
| Biochar | Creates lasting pore space | Once, then top up |
| Gypsum | Helps only sodium-affected clay | Only after a soil test |
| Wood chips or bark mulch | Protects surface, slows compaction | Refresh yearly |
Amendment Pros and Cons
| Amendment | Pros | Cons | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compost | Cheap, feeds soil life | Needs yearly reapplication | Every clay type |
| Biochar | Lasts years, permanent pore space | Higher upfront cost | Long-term structure |
| Gypsum | Fast on sodium clay | Useless on non-sodic clay | Sodium-affected soil only |
Speed, Cost, and Longevity Compared
| Amendment | Speed | Cost | Lasts |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compost | Medium | Low | 1 year |
| Leaf mold | Slow | Very low | 1 year |
| Biochar | Slow | High | 10+ years |
| Gypsum | Fast, sodic soils only | Medium | Variable |
Compost stays the default answer for most clay soil problems because it feeds soil biology while improving structure at the same time, something bagged conditioners can’t do.
Leaf mold is slower to make but costs nothing beyond fallen leaves and a season of patience, which makes it one of the most practical amendments for gardeners who compost at home.
Biochar is the outlier on this list. It doesn’t feed plants directly, but it creates pore space that lasts for years instead of breaking down like compost does within a single season.
Best Mulch for Clay Soil
Shredded wood chips are the most widely recommended mulch for clay soil because they break down slowly, feed soil life gradually, and hold up well through heavy rain without washing away.
Straw and shredded leaves work well too, especially in vegetable beds, and both add organic matter faster since they break down quicker than wood chips. Use our mulch calculator to work out how many bags or cubic yards your beds need at a 2 to 3 inch depth.
What Should You Never Add to Clay Soil?
Sand. Adding sand without enough organic matter can turn clay into something close to concrete. Sand fills the gaps between clay particles, and without organic matter to keep those pores open, the mix compacts even harder.
Chemical soil conditioners. Overusing a bottled soil conditioner for clay soil gives short-term results but doesn’t build lasting structure. Organic matter works cheaper across more seasons.
Excess digging. Tilling or digging clay too often breaks down the aggregates you’re trying to build. Less disturbance, more amendment.
Double digging clay soil, turning it over a full spade depth or more, is sometimes recommended for a one-time bed reset, but doing it repeatedly year after year works against the structure you’re trying to build. A broadfork for clay soil achieves a similar loosening effect with far less disruption to soil layers.
Peat moss deserves a mention too. It adds organic bulk but has almost no nutrient value and is a non-renewable resource in most regions, so compost or leaf mold are the more sustainable, more effective choice for clay specifically.
Quick Do and Don’t Reference
| Do | Don’t |
|---|---|
| Add compost yearly | Add sand without organic matter |
| Mulch year-round | Till when soil is wet |
| Use paths, not beds, for foot traffic | Walk directly on planting beds |
| Test soil before adding gypsum | Apply gypsum without a soil test |
How to Fix Poor Drainage in Clay Soil
Clay drains slowly because its fine particles leave almost no space for water to pass through, which is also why standing water is such a common clay soil complaint.
To reduce standing water: raise beds slightly, redirect downspouts away from garden areas, and avoid planting in low spots that collect runoff.
For long-term drainage fixes: French drains, dry wells, and gentle grading solve chronic wet spots that organic matter alone won’t fix.
A simple French drain, a gravel-filled trench that channels water away from the problem area, handles most backyard wet spots without needing to regrade the whole yard.
Dry wells work well for a single low corner that collects runoff after every storm. Grading the whole bed with a gentle slope away from the house solves the problem for good in most cases, but it’s more labor upfront.
Whichever fix you choose, pair it with organic matter. Drainage structures move water away, but only organic matter changes how the soil itself handles water going forward.
Improving Clay Soil in Specific Situations
Around Established Trees
Avoid digging or tilling near tree roots, since that damages the root zone more than the compacted soil ever would.
Instead, spread a thin layer of compost and 2 to 3 inches of mulch under the canopy, keeping both a few inches away from the trunk itself.
Near House Foundations
If you’re wondering how to improve clay soil near your house, the priority shifts from loosening the soil to managing water.
Grade soil so it slopes gently away from the foundation, and avoid amendments or drainage changes that redirect more water toward the house.
In Lawns
Clay lawn soil responds well to core aeration followed by a light compost topdressing raked into the holes.
Repeat aeration once or twice a year, ideally in fall, to keep compaction from building back up under regular foot traffic.
In Containers
Can you use clay soil in pots? No. Native clay soil compacts and drains poorly in the confined space of a container, which suffocates roots quickly.
Use a proper potting mix instead, and save your improved clay soil for garden beds and in-ground plantings.
For Vegetable Gardens
Clay soil for vegetable gardens benefits most from raised beds or heavily amended in-ground beds, since most vegetables need loose, well-draining soil for strong root development.
Hard clay soil that hasn’t been amended yet will still grow tougher crops like beans and squash, but leafy greens and root vegetables do better once structure has improved. Once your bed is amended, our plant spacing calculator helps you lay out crops so roots have room to spread in the improved soil.
Should You Till Clay Soil?
Tilling can help once, to work a large amendment into badly compacted clay before starting a new bed.
Repeated tilling, though, breaks down the aggregates organic matter builds. University of Missouri Extension points out that working in organic matter is the one practical, reliable fix for clay, more so than repeated mechanical tilling, according to their clay soil management guidance.
No-till methods that layer compost and mulch on the surface tend to outperform tilled soil after the first year or two.
When tilling can help: starting a brand new bed on badly compacted clay, or working a large volume of compost into ground that’s never been amended before.
When tilling causes more harm than good: doing it every season, tilling when soil is even slightly wet, or using it as a routine weed control method. Each pass breaks apart the aggregates the previous season’s amendments built.
Timing matters almost as much as the method itself. Working clay at the wrong moment, whether too wet, too dry, or too early in a cold spring, can cost you weeks of progress.
When Is the Best Time to Improve Clay Soil?
| Season | Why It Works | What to Do |
|---|---|---|
| Fall | Freeze-thaw cycles break up clumps | Add compost, mulch, plant cover crops |
| Spring | Soil life activates as it warms | Check moisture, amend lightly |
Avoid working clay soil right after heavy rain or during a hard summer drought. Both extremes undo your progress instead of helping it.
How Clay Soil Changes Throughout the Year
Clay cracks in dry weather because water leaving the fine particles causes the whole mass to shrink.
It turns sticky after rain because those same particles swell and trap water between them.
In winter, clay stays cold and wet longer than other soil types, which is why planting often needs to wait a few extra weeks compared to sandier ground nearby.
This seasonal swing between rock hard and sticky mud is normal for clay and doesn’t mean your amendment plan has failed. Improved clay still shrinks and swells with moisture, just less dramatically and with a faster recovery each time.
What to Expect: A Realistic Timeline
| Time | What Happens |
|---|---|
| 1 month | Slightly easier digging near amended areas |
| 6 months | Noticeably better water absorption |
| 1 year | Visible crumbly texture, more earthworms |
| 2 to 3 years | Full structural change, consistent drainage |
7 Signs Your Clay Soil Is Finally Improving
| Sign | What It Means |
|---|---|
| Faster water absorption | Pore space is increasing |
| More earthworms | Organic matter and soil life are established |
| Deeper, branching roots | Compaction is easing |
| Crumbly texture | Aggregates are forming, not just clumps |
| Fewer standing puddles | Drainage pathways have opened up |
| Easier digging when dry | Structure is holding instead of baking hard |
| Darker soil color | Organic matter content is rising |
Common Mistakes When Improving Clay Soil
Adding sand without enough organic matter. This is the single most common mistake, and it usually makes clay soil harder instead of looser.
Digging or tilling clay while it’s still wet. Working wet clay smears and compacts particles together in a way that can take a full season of amendment to undo.
Ignoring drainage problems instead of fixing the source. Adding compost to a bed that floods every spring treats a symptom, not the actual cause.
Expecting results in weeks instead of full growing seasons. Clay soil that took years to compact needs realistic timelines, not a single weekend project, to actually change.
Common Myths About Clay Soil
| Myth | Reality |
|---|---|
| Sand fixes clay soil | Sand without organic matter makes it denser |
| Gypsum works for every clay soil | It only helps sodium-affected soils |
| Nothing grows well in clay | Many plants thrive once structure improves |
The sand myth persists because sand does loosen clay in small test batches. At garden scale, without enough organic matter mixed in evenly, the result is closer to adobe than loam.
The gypsum myth spreads because it genuinely works, just only for the specific case of sodium-heavy clay, which is more common in arid Western states than in most home gardens elsewhere.
The “nothing grows” myth ignores how many native and adapted plants evolved specifically to handle heavy, water-retentive soil, which is exactly why the plant list below leans on tough, clay-tolerant species.
Best Plants for Clay Soil
| Category | Plants That Thrive |
|---|---|
| Vegetables | Beans, broccoli, cabbage, squash |
| Flowers | Black-eyed Susan, coneflower, daylily, aster |
| Shrubs and trees | Serviceberry, red-twig dogwood, bald cypress, viburnum |
These choices share one trait: root systems built to handle inconsistent moisture, which is exactly what unimproved clay throws at plants through a normal growing season.
As your clay soil improves, your plant options open up considerably. Better drainage and looser structure mean you can eventually grow more delicate, drought-sensitive plants that would have struggled in the original compacted ground.
If your problem is the opposite, fast-draining sandy ground rather than clay, this sandy soil improvement guide covers that fix by region.
If you’re looking for broader ways to build healthier, more fertile soil in any garden, also read our guide on how to improve garden soil.
Frequently Asked Questions About Clay Soil
Can clay soil be improved permanently?
Yes, with consistent yearly organic matter additions, clay soil structure changes in a lasting way. It still needs ongoing maintenance like any garden soil, so treat it as a habit rather than a single project.
How long does it take to improve clay soil?
Most gardeners see noticeably better drainage and workability within one to two growing seasons, with full structural change taking two to three years of consistent amendment.
Is gypsum good for every clay soil?
No. Gypsum only helps clay soils high in sodium. For typical garden clay, organic matter like compost improves structure more effectively and costs less over time.
Can you improve clay soil without digging?
Yes. No-dig methods that layer compost and mulch on the surface let earthworms and soil organisms work amendments in naturally, often outperforming tilled soil after a season or two.
What is the fastest way to improve clay soil?
There’s no true shortcut, but surface-applied compost, a 2 to 3 inch mulch layer, and keeping foot traffic off beds together give the fastest visible improvement in drainage and workability.
Does clay soil need fertilizer if I’m already adding compost?
Often less than you’d think. Clay holds nutrients well, and regular compost typically supplies enough for average garden plants, though heavy feeders like tomatoes may still benefit from a light supplemental feeding.
Final Thoughts on Improving Clay Soil
Improving heavy clay soil takes time, but the results last for years once the structure actually changes.
Add organic matter every season, keep it covered, stay off it when wet, and structure improves steadily year over year.
It’s tempting to look for a quick fix, but clay soil simply doesn’t improve that way. Sand alone, a single truckload of gypsum, or one aggressive tilling session will not undo years of compaction, and in some cases they make things worse.
The most reliable approach is surprisingly simple: add compost regularly, mulch the surface, avoid compaction, and let time do the rest.
Disclaimer: Information on this site is for educational purposes only. Results vary by climate, soil, weather, and growing conditions. For region-specific advice, consult your local USDA Cooperative Extension Service before making major gardening or soil changes.