Author: Jagdish Reddy | 10+ Years Sustainable Gardening Experience
Verification: Cross-referenced with USDA Climate Data & University Research
Status: Verified for current US regional growing conditions
Last Updated: March, 2026

| QUICK ANSWER: In Western Washington (Zones 7–9), start cool-season vegetables outdoors from late February through March, and transplant warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers after Memorial Day weekend. In Eastern Washington (Zones 5–7), wait until mid-April for cool-season outdoor sowing and late May for warm-season transplants. Your local last spring frost date is the anchor for everything — count backward from it to set all your indoor seed-starting dates. |
Washington State is one of the most rewarding — and genuinely tricky — places to garden in North America. The Cascade Mountains split the state into two very different climates, and what works in Seattle won’t work in Spokane. This Washington State planting calendar covers both regions with specific planting windows for vegetables, herbs, and flowers, plus frost dates, indoor seed-starting schedules, and a full quick-reference table so planning your garden planting schedule is straightforward.
Washington Planting Calendar — Quick Reference Table
This guide combines USDA hardiness zone data, WSU Extension horticulture recommendations, and practical Pacific Northwest gardener experience. Use the table below as your at-a-glance Washington State garden calendar. W. WA = Western Washington; E. WA = Eastern Washington.
| Crop | Start Indoors | Transplant Outside | Direct Sow | Region Notes |
| Tomatoes | Late Feb–Mar | Late May–June | — | E. WA: mid-May OK in Yakima / Tri-Cities |
| Peppers | Early Feb | Early June (W.WA) | — | E. WA: late May; start 2–3 wks before tomatoes |
| Eggplant | Early Feb | Early June | — | Both regions; needs heat |
| Cucumbers | Early Apr | Mid–Late May | May (65°F soil) | E. WA: excellent producers |
| Summer Squash / Zucchini | Late Apr | Mid May | May after frost | Both regions |
| Winter Squash / Pumpkins | Early–Mid Apr | Mid–Late May | May after frost | Both regions |
| Beans (green / pole) | — | — | May–July | Succession sow every 3 weeks |
| Corn | — | — | May–June | E. WA’s hot summers ideal |
| Melons / Watermelon | Late Mar–Early Apr | Late May–June | — | E. WA only; use row cover |
| Peas | — | — | Mar–Apr (W.WA); Late Mar (E.WA) | Cool season; sow early |
| Lettuce / Salad Mix | Feb–Mar | Mar–Apr | Mar–Sept (W.WA) | Succession plant every 3–4 wks |
| Spinach | — | — | Feb–Apr; Aug–Sept | Bolts in summer heat |
| Kale / Chard | Feb–Mar | Mar–Apr | Mar–Aug | Overwinters in W. WA |
| Broccoli / Cauliflower | Mid Feb–Mar | Late Mar–Apr | — | Also: start July for fall harvest |
| Cabbage | Mid Feb–Mar | Late Mar–Apr | — | Both regions |
| Carrots | — | — | Mar–July | Needs loose soil; succession sow |
| Beets | — | — | Mar–July | Both regions; easy direct sow |
| Radishes | — | — | Mar–Sept | 30-day crop; very easy succession |
| Onions (long-day) | Late Dec–Jan | Mar–Apr | — | Long-day varieties required for WA |
| Leeks | Jan–Early Feb | Mar–Apr | — | Hardy; transplant early |
| Garlic | — | — | Oct–Nov (fall) | Harvest following July |
| Potatoes (seed) | — | — | Mar–May | E. WA: major production region |
| Basil | Late Mar–Early Apr | Late May–June | — | Most frost-tender herb; don’t rush |
| Parsley | Feb–Mar | Apr–May | — | Slow germinator; start early |
| Cilantro | — | — | Mar–May; Aug–Sept | Cool-season; bolts in heat |
| Dill | — | — | Apr–June | Direct sow only |
| Sweet Peas | Feb–Mar | Late Feb–Mar | Feb–Mar (W.WA) | Sow very early; hate heat |
| Dahlias (tubers) | — | — | Plant May–June | W. WA’s signature summer flower |
| Zinnias | Late Apr–May | Late May–June | Late May–June | Need warmth; don’t rush in W. WA |
| Sunflowers | — | — | May–Early June | After soil warms to 60°F |
| Nasturtiums | — | — | Apr–May after frost | Very easy direct sow |
| Tulips / Daffodils / Alliums | — | — | Oct–Nov (fall) | Spring bloom; plant bulbs in fall |
Bookmark this Washington planting calendar as your year-round reference — you’ll come back to it every season.
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| 🗓 Washington Planting Calendar — Key Dates by Region Western Washington (Zones 7–9) Cool-season crops outdoors → February – March Warm-season transplants (tomatoes, peppers) → Late May Fall crops start indoors → July – August Garlic planting → October – November Eastern Washington (Zones 5–7) Cool-season crops outdoors → April Warm-season transplants → Mid–Late May Fall crops → August – September Garlic planting → October – November |
Washington State USDA Zones and Frost Dates
| Washington Planting Calendar: Key Frost Dates at a Glance Seattle / Puget Sound: Last frost March 1–15 · First fall frost Nov 15–30 Tacoma / Olympia: Last frost March 15–April 1 · First fall frost Nov 1–15 Bellingham: Last frost April 1–15 · First fall frost Oct 15–31 Vancouver, WA: Last frost March 15–April 1 · First fall frost Nov 1–20 Spokane: Last frost May 1–15 · First fall frost Oct 1–15 Yakima: Last frost April 15–May 1 · First fall frost Oct 15–31 Tri-Cities (Kennewick): Last frost April 1–15 · First fall frost Oct 31–Nov 15 Walla Walla: Last frost April 1–15 · First fall frost Nov 1–15 NE Mountains (Colville): Last frost May 15–June 1 · First fall frost Sept 15–30 |
Washington spans USDA Hardiness Zones 4 through 9. The Cascade Mountains act as a climate wall, creating two fundamentally different gardening environments on either side.
| City / Region | Zone | Last Spring Frost | First Fall Frost | Growing Season |
| Seattle | 8a–8b | March 1–15 | Nov 15–30 | ~245 days |
| Olympia / Tacoma | 7b–8a | March 15–April 1 | Nov 1–15 | ~220 days |
| Bellingham | 7b–8a | April 1–15 | Oct 15–31 | ~195 days |
| Vancouver, WA | 8a–8b | March 15–April 1 | Nov 1–20 | ~225 days |
| Spokane | 6a–6b | May 1–15 | Oct 1–15 | ~150 days |
| Yakima | 6b–7a | April 15–May 1 | Oct 15–31 | ~175 days |
| Tri-Cities (Kennewick) | 7a–7b | April 1–15 | Oct 31–Nov 15 | ~205 days |
| Walla Walla | 7a–7b | April 1–15 | Nov 1–15 | ~205 days |
| Colville / NE Mts. | 4b–5a | May 15–June 1 | Sept 15–30 | ~115 days |
| These are historical averages, not guarantees. In any given year, spring arrives two to three weeks earlier or later. Always check your 10-day forecast before transplanting frost-sensitive crops like tomatoes, basil, and cucumbers. |
Western vs. Eastern Washington: Key Planting Differences
| Factor | Western Washington | Eastern Washington |
| Last spring frost | March – early April | April – May 15 |
| First fall frost | November – December | October – early November |
| Growing season | ~200–245 days | ~115–205 days |
| Summer temperatures | Mild; rarely above 90°F | Hot; regularly 90–100°F+ |
| Best cool-season crops | Kale, chard, brassicas, greens | Peas, spinach, lettuce (spring) |
| Best warm-season crops | Tomatoes (with effort), dahlias | Corn, peppers, melons, dry beans |
| Irrigation need | Low — rainfall usually sufficient | Essential — dry summers |
| Winter gardening | Yes — kale, chard, leeks overwinter | No — ground freezes |
| Tomato transplant date | Late May – early June | Mid May (warmer areas) |
| Garlic planting | October – December | October – November |
When to Start Seeds Indoors in Washington State
Indoor seed starting is how Washington gardeners compensate for cool springs and short frost-free windows. Both sides of the Cascades benefit — the west side needs a head start on heat-loving crops; the east side’s short season makes early starts essential for squash and melons. One important note: Washington winters don’t provide enough daylight for seedlings without supplemental lighting. A basic LED or fluorescent shop light kept 2–3 inches above seedlings for 14–16 hours daily produces dramatically stronger transplants than a windowsill alone.
Western Washington Indoor Seed-Starting Schedule
| Crop | Start Indoors | Weeks Before Transplant | Transplant Date |
| Onions (long-day) | Late Dec–Early Jan | 12–14 wks | Mar–Apr |
| Leeks | Jan–Early Feb | 10–12 wks | Mar–Apr |
| Celery / Celeriac | Early–Mid Feb | 10–12 wks | Late Apr–May |
| Peppers | Early–Mid Feb | 10–12 wks | Early June |
| Eggplant | Early–Mid Feb | 10–12 wks | Early June |
| Tomatoes | Late Feb–Early Mar | 8–10 wks | Late May–June |
| Broccoli / Cauliflower | Mid Feb–Mar | 6–8 wks | Late Mar–Apr |
| Kale / Cabbage | Mid Feb–Mar | 6–8 wks | Mar–Apr |
| Lettuce / Salad Mix | Feb–Mar | 4–6 wks | Mar–Apr |
| Basil | Late Mar–Early Apr | 6–8 wks | Late May–June |
| Snapdragons / Stock | Early–Mid Feb | 8–10 wks | Late Mar–Apr |
Eastern Washington — Key Indoor Start Dates
Count 8–10 weeks back from your local last frost date. Key crops and lead times:
- Peppers — start early–mid March; transplant late May–June
- Tomatoes — start mid–late March; transplant mid–late May
- Melons / Watermelon — start late March–early April; transplant late May–June with row cover
- Cucumbers — start early April; transplant mid–late May (or direct sow at 65°F soil)
- Broccoli / Cabbage — start early–mid March; transplant early–mid April
- Winter Squash — start early–mid April; transplant mid–late May
Monthly Planting Calendar for Washington State
Western WA dates appear first throughout. Where Eastern WA differs meaningfully, it is noted directly.
January – February
Both sides of the state are mostly dormant outdoors, but January is the start of the indoor seed-starting season. Start long-day onion varieties and leeks in early January — they need 10–12 weeks before transplanting. Start celery, celeriac, and peppers indoors in mid-to-late January. In Western Washington, cold-hardy greens like spinach, mâche, and claytonia can be sown under a cold frame or unheated hoop house by late February.
March
March is the most active outdoor month for Western Washington gardeners. If you are setting up new raised beds this spring, use our raised bed soil calculator to get the exact soil mix volume before you buy. As soon as soil is workable — typically early March in sheltered lowland gardens — direct sow peas, spinach, arugula, radishes, carrots, beets, and chard. Start tomato transplants indoors this month. In Eastern Washington, outdoor sowing should wait for late March; late frosts remain common through the first half of the month.
April
In Western Washington, April is transplant month for hardened-off brassicas, onion sets, and leeks. Continue direct sowing carrots, beets, and salad greens. Plant sweet peas and pansies outdoors — they thrive in cool April weather. Do not plant tomatoes or peppers outdoors yet. Cold soil below 60°F stunts warm-season crops even without frost — patience is worth more than optimism here. In Eastern Washington, April marks the start of cool-season outdoor sowing in earnest.
May
Late May is the transition point for warm-season planting across Washington. In Western Washington, transplant tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and basil outdoors after nighttime temperatures consistently hold above 50°F — Memorial Day weekend is the reliable benchmark most experienced local gardeners use. Direct sow beans and summer squash. This is also a good time to top up bed pathways and borders — our mulch calculator will tell you exactly how many bags or cubic yards you need. In Eastern Washington, mid-May works for warm-season transplants in warmer areas like Yakima and the Tri-Cities; Spokane should wait until after May 15.
June
June is full production and succession planting. Sow beans every 2–3 weeks through July for continuous harvest. In Eastern Washington, begin consistent deep irrigation as summer heat arrives — water at the base of plants, not overhead.
July – August
While summer crops produce, July and August are the critical windows for fall garden planting in Western Washington. Start fall broccoli, kale, chard, and Asian greens indoors in early July, then transplant outdoors by August. Direct sow spinach, arugula, and turnips in August for fall harvest. These crops will establish before days shorten and can produce through late fall — or through winter under minimal cover.
September – October
September still allows fast-maturing crops in Western Washington — lettuce, radishes, and spinach started now will produce before hard frosts. October is garlic month across the state. Plant hardneck varieties like Rocambole, Porcelain, or Purple Stripe for summer harvest. Plant spring-flowering bulbs (tulips, daffodils, alliums) through October and sow cover crops across empty beds.
November – December
Hardy overwintering crops — leeks, kale, Brussels sprouts, chard — continue growing slowly in Western Washington under minimal cover. Eastern Washington gardens are dormant. Order seeds, review what worked, and plan next year’s crop rotations.
Washington State Herb Planting Calendar
Washington’s cool maritime climate suits many culinary herbs but challenges heat-lovers like basil. Here’s the Washington herb planting calendar for both regions.
| Herb | Plant Time (W. WA) | Plant Time (E. WA) | Notes |
| Basil | Late May–June | Late May–June | Most cold-sensitive; do not rush outdoors |
| Parsley | Mar–Apr (transplant) | Apr–May | Slow germinator; start indoors 8 wks early |
| Cilantro | Mar–May; Aug–Sept | Apr–May; Aug | Cool-season; bolts fast in heat |
| Dill | Apr–June | Apr–June | Direct sow only; resents transplanting |
| Chives | Mar–Apr | Apr–May | Hardy perennial; overwinters in WA |
| Mint | Apr–May | May | Plant in containers; spreads aggressively |
| Rosemary | Apr–May (sheltered) | May–June | Marginal in E. WA winters; mulch heavily |
| Thyme / Oregano | Apr–May | May | Hardy perennials once established |
| Lavender | Apr–May | May | Thrives in E. WA dry heat; struggles in wet W. WA |
| Sage | Apr–May | May | Drought-tolerant; excellent in E. WA |
When to Plant Flowers in Washington State
Washington’s cool wet springs produce outstanding results for cold-tolerant annuals, and the warm days / cool nights of summer create ideal conditions for dahlias and sweet peas that would struggle in hotter climates.
| Flower | Plant Time | Bloom Time | Notes |
| Sweet Peas | Feb–Mar (W. WA) | May–July | Sow very early; hate summer heat |
| Pansies / Violas | Feb–Apr (transplant) | Spring–Fall | Cold-hardy; thrives in WA spring conditions |
| Snapdragons | Feb–Mar indoors; Apr transplant | May–July | Cool-tolerant; outstanding cut flower |
| Lobelia / Alyssum | Mar–Apr (transplant) | May–Sept | Good cool-season performers |
| Nasturtiums | Apr–May (direct sow) | June–Oct | After last frost; very easy |
| Cosmos | May–June (direct sow) | Aug–Oct | Self-seeds reliably across WA |
| Zinnias | Late May–June | July–Oct | Need warmth; don’t rush in W. WA |
| Marigolds | May–June | July–Frost | Wait for consistently warm nights |
| Sunflowers | May–Early June (direct sow) | Aug–Sept | After soil warms to 60°F |
| Dahlias (tubers) | May–June | Aug–Frost | W. WA’s signature summer flower; dig in fall |
| Impatiens / Begonias | Late May (transplant) | June–Frost | Wait for warm nights in W. WA |
| Tulips / Daffodils | Oct–Nov (fall bulb planting) | Mar–May | Plant in fall for spring bloom |
| Alliums | Oct–Nov (fall) | May–June | Excellent in both WA regions |
Dahlias deserve a special note. Western Washington’s cool nights and warm days produce some of the most spectacular dahlia blooms in the country — a few dinner-plate varieties in late May will convert you by August.
Common Planting Mistakes Washington Gardeners Make
| TIMING MISTAKES TO AVOID These errors come up consistently — in print, in extension offices, and in real gardens across both sides of the state. |
Planting tomatoes in April. The single most widespread mistake in Western Washington. April soil temperatures hover in the low 50s°F — tomatoes planted then don’t die, they just sit there for weeks, not growing. A tomato transplanted in late May into warm soil will frequently catch and surpass an April-planted one by August. Patience wins every time.
Skipping hardening off. Seedlings moved directly from a warm indoor environment to outdoor conditions — wind, UV, temperature swings — routinely suffer transplant shock even when frost risk is past. Give transplants 7–10 days of gradually increasing outdoor time before planting permanently.
Treating average frost dates as deadlines. Average last frost dates represent the midpoint of a historical range, not a guarantee. Late cold snaps in the Columbia Basin and mountain-adjacent areas can surprise experienced gardeners well into May. Watch the forecast; don’t just trust the calendar.
Ignoring soil temperature. Soil temperature controls germination and root growth. A simple $15 soil thermometer is one of the most useful tools in a Washington garden. Cool-season crops germinate at 40–55°F; warm-season crops need 65°F or above, consistently.
Starting peppers and tomatoes the same week. Peppers need 10–12 weeks indoors; tomatoes need 8–10 weeks. Starting both in mid-March means tomatoes become root-bound and leggy while peppers are still small. Start peppers 2–3 weeks before tomatoes.
Not succession planting cool-season crops. One batch of lettuce in April creates a glut in June and nothing by September. Sow salad greens every 3–4 weeks from March through September for harvests all season.
Washington State Seasonal Garden Planting Checklist
January – February
- Order seeds; review last year’s notes and plan crop rotation
- Start onions and leeks indoors (early January)
- Start celery, celeriac, peppers, and eggplant indoors (mid–late January to early February)
- Set up grow lights — essential for strong seedlings before April
- Amend garden beds with compost when ground is accessible — use our compost calculator to measure the right amount for your bed size
March – April
- Direct sow peas, spinach, arugula, radishes outdoors (W. WA: March; E. WA: late March)
- Start tomatoes, brassicas, and cool-season annual flowers indoors
- Transplant hardened-off brassicas, onions, and leeks outdoors
- Check soil temperature before any direct outdoor sowing
- Plant sweet peas and pansies outdoors in W. WA
May – June
- Transplant tomatoes and peppers after last frost (W. WA: late May; E. WA: mid-May)
- Direct sow beans, summer squash, cucumbers after frost passes
- Plant dahlia tubers, zinnias, and warm-season annual flowers
- Begin succession sowing of beans and salad greens
- Harden off all transplants for 7–10 days before permanent planting
July – August
- Start fall brassicas and kale indoors (early July)
- Direct sow fall spinach, arugula, and turnips (late July–August)
- Harvest regularly to keep plants producing
- Water consistently and deeply in Eastern Washington as heat peaks
September – November
- Transplant fall brassicas; sow fast greens for fall harvest (September)
- Plant garlic (October–November)
- Plant spring bulbs — tulips, daffodils, alliums (October)
- Sow cover crops across empty beds through October
- Dig and store dahlia tubers after first frost (W. WA)
How to Use This Washington State Planting Calendar
- Find your USDA hardiness zone. Enter your zip code at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov to confirm your zone and whether you’re in a western or eastern climate pattern.
- Look up your local last spring frost date. Use your county’s WSU Extension website. Write it down — it’s the anchor date for everything else.
- Count backward for indoor seed starts. If your last frost is May 10 and tomatoes need 8–10 weeks indoors, count back to early-to-mid March as your start date.
- Check soil temperature before direct sowing. Use a soil thermometer at 2-inch depth. Cool-season crops germinate at 40–55°F; warm-season crops need 65°F or above.
- Plan succession plantings. Decide which crops you want continuously (salad greens, beans, radishes) and schedule new sowings every 3–4 weeks throughout the season.
- Harden off all indoor-started transplants. Bring them outside for gradually increasing time over 7–10 days before permanent planting.
- Keep a simple planting journal. Note planting dates, transplant dates, first harvest, and any weather anomalies. Three seasons of notes will improve your planting decisions more than any guide.
Key Takeaways
- Washington State’s climate divides at the Cascades — gardening timelines on the west and east sides differ by 4–8 weeks for most warm-season crops.
- Your local last spring frost date is the single most important number for planting timing — look it up by city, not by region.
- In Western Washington, warm-season transplants (tomatoes, peppers, basil) belong outdoors in late May, not April — regardless of warm spells earlier in spring.
- Grow lights are not optional for indoor seed starting in Washington — winter light levels are insufficient for strong, healthy seedlings without supplemental lighting.
- Western Washington’s long cool season is an underused advantage — succession-plant cool-season crops from March through September for continuous harvests.
- Dahlias, sweet peas, kale, and brassicas thrive in Washington’s climate — lean into what the region does naturally well rather than fighting it.
- Soil temperature matters more than air temperature for germination timing — use a thermometer, not just a calendar.
More State Planting Calendars
→ Florida Planting Calendar
→ Texas Planting Calendar
→ Arizona Planting Calendar
→ Ohio Planting Calendar
→ Michigan Planting Calendar
Frequently Asked Questions Washington Planting Dates
1. When should I plant tomatoes in Washington State?
In Western Washington, transplant tomatoes outdoors in late May to early June once nighttime temperatures stay consistently above 50°F — Memorial Day weekend is the reliable benchmark most experienced local gardeners use. In Eastern Washington, mid-May works in warmer areas like Yakima and the Tri-Cities. Start seeds indoors 8–10 weeks before transplant date. Cold soil stunts tomatoes even when they survive the frost, so resist planting early.
2. What vegetables can I plant in March in Washington State?
In Western Washington, March is a very active planting month. Direct sow peas, spinach, arugula, radishes, beets, carrots, and chard outdoors as soon as soil is workable. Transplant hardened-off kale, broccoli, and onion starts mid-to-late March. In Eastern Washington, late March is when cool-season outdoor sowing begins. Soil temperature should be at least 40°F before direct sowing.
3. What is the last frost date in Seattle?
Seattle’s average last spring frost date is March 1–15, one of the earliest in Washington State. This is a historical average — light frosts can occur into early April in lower-lying or less sheltered areas. Most Seattle gardeners use April 1 as their practical cutoff for cold-sensitive transplants and adjust based on the actual forecast each year.
4. Can I grow peppers in Washington State?
Yes — with extra care, especially in Western Washington. Peppers need the warmest, most sheltered spot in your garden, consistently warm soil above 65°F, and benefit from black plastic mulch to raise soil temperature. Starting seeds indoors in early February provides the 10–12-week head start they need. In Eastern Washington — particularly Yakima, the Tri-Cities, and Walla Walla — the hot dry summers produce excellent pepper yields with much less intervention.
5. When should I plant garlic in Washington State?
Plant garlic in fall — October through early November is ideal across most of Washington. Garlic requires a cold vernalization period to form proper bulbs, and fall planting lets roots establish before the ground freezes. Hardneck varieties like Rocambole, Porcelain, or Purple Stripe perform well statewide. Expect harvest the following July.
6. What is the easiest vegetable to grow in Washington State?
Kale is arguably Washington’s most beginner-friendly vegetable. It thrives in the cool moist climate of Western Washington, tolerates heavy rain, survives light frosts, and produces abundantly from spring through winter with minimal care. Zucchini, chard, and snap peas are also highly reliable for new Washington gardeners. In Eastern Washington, green beans, cucumbers, and sweet corn deliver consistently strong harvests.
8. Can I plant a fall and winter garden in Washington State?
Absolutely — and this is one of Western Washington’s most underused advantages. Cool-season crops like kale, chard, spinach, Asian greens, arugula, leeks, and turnips grow well into late fall and can hold through winter under minimal protection. Start fall crops in July and August. In Eastern Washington, fall gardens are shorter but still productive from September through October before hard frosts set in permanently.
This guide draws on USDA hardiness zone data, WSU Extension horticulture recommendations, NOAA climate normals, and the accumulated experience of Pacific Northwest home gardeners. Conditions vary by microclimate — always observe your specific site and adjust accordingly.
